Autumn in Ohara

Tucked away between the Hira-san-kei and Kitayama mountains of northern Kyoto lies the tranquil town of Ohara. Reachable from downtown Kyoto in less than an hour by bus (20km), this small hamlet is a popular destination for tourists, especially in autumn when the leaves begin to change colour around a week earlier than in central Kyoto. The town has its roots in agriculture, and a series of wide rice paddies sprawl out towards the mountains from the quaint country lanes to make this an ideal destination for those in the mood for a rural stroll.

The town's most popular attraction is the famous Sanzen-in Temple, which was established in the late 8^th century by revered monk Saicho, or Dengyo Daihi (762-822), who introduced Tendai Buddhism to Japan shortly before in the year 804. The lanes leading up to the temple's entrance are lined with stalls selling omiyage (souvenirs) and Tsukemono (Japanese pickles) sourced from the land around the town.

Upon entering Sanzen-in, visitors walk through a maze of corridors connecting the temple's different buildings to arrive at Kyakuden Hall. From here, one can sit down on soft mats and look out of the paper sliding doors on the Shuhekien Garden. The garden is beautiful in early autumn as the leaves begin to change colour on the wide array of plants at different speeds, creating a collage of colour and texture.

From Kyakuden, visitors continue through the temple corridors and out to Yusei-en, the moss garden and Sanzen-in's most famous space. Thick, dark-trunked trees rise up like columns all around, the canopy keeping the garden eerily shaded throughout the day. Moss climbs up the trees from the floor, where it is green and lush and pierced by stone heads poking out of the ground to gaze upon passers-through. 

The moss garden is also home to Ojo-Gokuraku-in Hall, the oldest of the temple's buildings, originally dating from 985. A walk along the dust paths of the garden brings visitors out of the trees and back into the light of day, and with it, into an explosion of reds and golds and yellows from the leaves of the plants all around.

Exiting the temple brings visitors back into the mishmash of narrow lanes that wind through the old town. Along them are more temples; one being Shorin-in, built in the year 1013 by monk Jakugen and centre of the Tendai practice of Shomyo (an ancient chant deriving from India that expresses admiration for Buddha), and more picturesque autumn foliage.